Saturday, May 5, 2012

Day 9 – “Battle of Accra airport”

Leslie and Andrew: 

Don’t fly Delta. Just advice from me to you.




After a wonderful Lebanese lunch at Frankie’s and a series of harried bargains at an arts and crafts fair (Irene stood out as one of the tough negotiators) over paintings, bracelets, decorative masks, statues, and shirts, we headed to Accra airport… and got stuck. The traffic jam of the century led us to worry we would actually miss our flights despite the fact that we left around 5 hours before the flight was scheduled to depart. As we waited in traffic, one of us got the bright idea to make a run for it (we were, according to Google, only 2km from the airport). With militaristic efficiency, the bigger guys got out first to unload the bags, and the rest of us made a mad dash for the airport. Most of us were overtaken by the bus, which of course started to move as soon as we all got out.

We got to the airport one hour and fifty five minutes before the 10:00pm Delta flight, fifty five minutes before the 9:00pm KLM and Lufthansa flights. Guess which of us made it? The epic dash to the airport was a success for those on KLM and Lufthansa. The rest of us stayed another night in Ghana, but thanks to a series of bold moves by the calmest among us (Erin, Andrew, James, and Anya – thanks!) we got on the flight the next day.

Day 8 – “Ending on a high”

Leslie: Meeting John Kufuor was an inspirational experience. The former President of Ghana showed himself a strikingly humble person, taking little credit for the flourishing of the country under his control. His commitment to good governance, and the sincerity of his belief in its importance, were clear, as he spoke about how people all over the world desire to be free. He spoke at length about the requirements for education, reduced taxation for cocoa, and inducements to find oil that helped quadruple GDP over his term as president. It was a fantastic meeting we were honored to have.

At Databank, we met with some of the beneficiaries of the steady, stable governance Kufuor provided. The corporate bankers seemed optimistic about the future of Ghana, talking about how pension reforms would give them lots of new investing business. They struck quite the contrast with their Nigerian counterparts; they seemed to have a more passive approach to growth, and had less of an idea what regulatory agenda they would support.

Finally, out of all the amazing experiences we had, for many of us, visiting  MEST (the Meltwater Entrepreneurial School of Technology) was a favorite. Some of us were surprised to hear that a startup incubator existed in Ghana.  But after visiting, we realized the incredible students and teachers at MEST seemed like something right out of the Silicon Valley.  Indeed, speaking to the founders reminded many of us of our entrepreneurial classmates and friends back at home.

When we toured the school and spoke with professors, students, and entrepreneurs, we found that the students are incredibly driven, mastering programming skills in under two years before some of their start-up ideas go on to the incubator stage. And the entrepreneurs in the incubator are spunky visionaries creating companies that are trying to solve global challenges, not just Ghanaian ones.









We were all impressed with the quality of the ideas and the students’ dedication towards executing on them. The eventual vision of MEST is to create the Silicon Valley of Ghana, with only Ghanaian-born entrepreneurs staying in Ghana and creating world-leading companies.  We are eager to see the new companies that are formed, and the positive impact MEST can have on Ghana and the rest of the world.

Andrew: After hitting the delicious hotel buffet a second time, we were on our way to explore Ghana night life.  Our first stop was a low key jazz bar, but that didn’t seem to fit the mood.  Then, we went to a different location in a shopping center which turned out to be closed.  Finally, we stopped at an outdoor bar which I heard was built from a shipping container.  This was a pretty local experience, with small plastic chairs, low tables, and cheap beer that reminded me of drinking on the streets of Beijing.  I’m not sure how it happened but others in the group found a lounge a few blocks away.  The arrival of 30 MBA students who were eager to drink was no doubt the biggest thing to happen on a Monday night for the business owner.  We insisted the music be turned up and got to dancing. 

Our next adventure was heading back to the hotel.  After some drinking at the hotel bar and a few spontaneous Disney songs, a group of us found our way to the hotel pool.  We chatted there a bit and then made our way across the beach to the ocean where we played in the sand and waves - a beautiful way to cap our our Africa adventure.

Day 7- “Ugly legacy”


Leslie: Day 7, we had a stark reminder of the brutal legacy of slavery on Ghana. It was shocking to realize we’d almost forgotten about that period and its impact on the region until then. But when we toured the slave dungeons at Elmina Castle, learned about inhumane conditions for prisoners, heard stories of appalling mistreatment and mass murder (one shipmaster is known to have drowned hundreds of slaves to collect insurance money), and saw firsthand the ports where slaves used to walk toward waiting, menacing ships, that history felt more real than it had in any museum in the US South.











Andrew: After visiting the castles, we took the bus back to Accra.  Our hotel was beautiful and right next to the beach.  We met with Stanford alumni over a delicious buffet dinner, and most of us ended up calling it an early night.  

Day 6 – “Bridges in the sky”

Leslie: Day 6, we got a tour of Kakum National Park, which included all of the following:
       Obligatory pictures with adorable Ghanaian schoolchildren (also, a shuffle video with said schoolchildren, who were very good sports)
       Terrifying (for me) rope bridges many, many, many too many meters above the jungle floor – tour guides claim they were ‘checked’ every two weeks for flaws, but the story didn’t really hold up…
       A description of how ancient Ghanaians used the trees and plants around us (a certain Grinchy trip leaders questioned some of the ‘facts’ – like using one tree’s sap as perfume)
       For the rest of the day, we rested at the hotel beach and bought souvenirs from passing jewelry salesmen. It was a beautiful, peaceful afternoon.







Andrew: I have a brief aside about our bus driver, Oliver, who an incredible driver of our 50-person bus.  On our way to the Kakum National Park, Oliver is dodging obstacles like potholes or pedestrians like a champion.  Then all of a sudden I hear this scream “you’re going to hit the baby goats!”  It was Irene.  We didn’t hit the goats.

Ting being mobbed was another theme of the trip.  First, it happened with the Chinese workers at Dangote Cement.  This time, the children we were shuffling with couldn’t let go of her. 

At night, there’s a party outside of Michael and my room.  Two games went on.  One was “Bowl of Nouns.”  You go through a series of nouns through multiple rounds.  Since you’ve heard all the nouns multiple times, the last round you only get to say a sound which led to some funny moments.  There was another game of “I love you” being played, where the goal is to tell the person next to you how much you love them and try to get them to laugh.  Andrew Garza’s implorations of “I’ll pronounce your name right, day after day” made sure Michael couldn’t hold it together. 

Day 5 – “Welcome to Ghana”

Leslie: Incredibly, the trip only got better from there. Despite a less-than-smooth negotiation of our path through the Lagos airport, we had a nice traveling day.

Ghana won us over almost immediately when we landed in the beautiful new airport in Accra, were welcomed to an air conditioned bus with powerful, much-needed coffee, and headed through beautiful green countryside toward Ashesi University.

Ashesi was one of the highlights of the trip. A mini-Stanford University with a beautiful, new, well-kept campus far outside of Accra in the countryside of Ghana (amid small wooden houses and gravel roads), the university was full of students with similar aspirations to our own (I spoke with one girl who was interning at Goldman Sachs during the coming summer, and several were entrepreneurs – one was starting a bakery). The story of the University’s founding (difficulty fundraising, difficulty convincing students and parents to believe in a curriculum less based on memorizing a core subject and more on teaching how to think with a strong liberal arts base) was an inspiring case on what really choosing to make a difference looks like.



  
We got another glimpse into the challenges of fundraising for educational causes when we met with the woman who conceived of the Golden Baobob, a pan-African prize for children’s literature. The prize aims to promote the writing of African stories for African children to learn to read. We turned a little consultant-like in offering suggestions on how to get more out of the prize and promote its winners (read: an aggressive interrogation by Professor Berk J), but overall had a warm conversation with the founder of the prize.

Andrew:   Getting to Ghana was a challenge, and I had some personal experience with the idea that “facilitating payments” is not just a concept we learned in Global!

Personally, Patrick Awuah was the most inspiring leader we met.  As someone who has worked on a startup before, I can only imagine how impossible it is to “startup” a university.  I left wondering about the education space, and what I could do to help it.

Day 4 – “Nothing is impossible”


Leslie: Aliko Dangote is one of the richest men in the world, and is the richest man in Africa. He’s a soft-spoken industrial man who appears obsessed with the details of the efficiency and productivity of his operations (his walls are papered with pictures of his plants) – less of a smooth-talking political operator or public speaker than one might expect of a CEO with a net worth of over $10 billion. During our meeting with him, he encouraged perseverance and hard work (he had a sign saying “Nothing is impossible” on his desk), like many entrepreneurs, but also shared specific targets he always sets for his investments (a 30% IRR, for example) and encouraged students to work in developing economies because of the wealth of opportunities in simple businesses there. His story of building large, value-added businesses in Nigeria was one of the trip highlights for me.

At Reeds, a delicious Thai restaurant (what a surprise!) in Lagos, we had a quick check-in on how the trip was going (well), and then it was off to a movie premiere. Photographers who didn’t know we weren’t famous ended up with a lot of great dramatic snaps of a group of business school tourists J.



One of the other trip highlights was also today, and that was meeting Onu’s wonderful family. It’s no surprise that our calm, happy, optimistic trip leader came from such warm, friendly people, but we were still overwhelmed by their hospitality, his mother’s amazing cooking (she made a feast of stews, meats, and rice), and his father’s silly jokes. We all agreed with Onu: this was one of the best nights of the trip – we really felt at home here in Nigeria.

Andrew:  It was mind-blowing how profitable Dangote Group was.  One memorable quote - “We can make cement more profitably than someone can make software.”  This prompted Professor Berk to (repeatedly) ask “But WHY???” 

Day 3 – “Where’s the power?”


Leslie: The CEO of GT Bank, Segun Agbaje, was a forceful presence from the moment he entered the meeting room.  Talking enthusiastically about how he expected to build the bank by expanding into East Africa, building the retail bank’s business among richer Nigerians, and taking on new sectors of the economy with commercial banking services, he seemed undaunted by the potential challenges of competition from other banks and new financial services providers like Pagatech.

His aggressive, optimistic attitude was echoed by leaders at MTN Nigeria, the leading telecom provider, who told stories about overcoming an overwhelmed power infrastructure and naysayers who doubted the ability of Nigerians to pay for telecom services (naysayers were wrong; the hidden, unmeasured “black market” economy is so large that spending power can be 4x what is reported) to create a vast market with home-generated power.

Having heard from two leaders who seemed to find the government more obstacle than help, it was interesting to hear the other side of that story. In a meeting with a representative from the Lagos State government, we learned that the state is at least aware of all of the challenges facing it: he talked about projects in infrastructure, education and power, and about the goal of making Lagos the industrial leader of Africa. Although he couldn’t directly address the power challenges (that’s a matter for national government), the Lagos State Governor did suggest that tackling corruption should wait, in his view, until infrastructure is in place to allow the economy to grow.

It’s worth noting that during all of these visits (from African Capital Alliance onward – the Ibese cement plant excluded), the meeting entourages were an almost even mix of men and women. It was exciting to see that women may not be starting from an uneven footing among the businesspeople of West Africa. I haven’t seen such balance in American boardrooms.

The highlight of the day for me was our visit to Pagatech. Tying together our visit to a telecom company and a bank was a visit to a company that worked with both to create something new and better – lower-priced money transfers for people not reached by the big banks. Mr. Oviosu’s army of agents allow people to conduct transfers and conduct outreach to new customers, bringing features phones and smartphones alike into mobile money transfer. The next step is taking on traditional banking more directly, with savings, checking, and credit accounts. GMIX, anyone?

Dinner at Bogobiri included Michael drinking a “Climax,” a capella performances by Merp, Onu, and Leslie, and a little souvenir shopping. At the club, we enjoyed “Wild Sex,” American music, stripper poles, and the company of some interesting new Nigerian friends ;).

Andrew: Perhaps Leslie is being modest, but to me the highlight of the evening was the singing at Bogobiri.  After the live band finished its (in my opinion, annoyingly) loud performance, we took entertainment into our own hands.  Specifically, Erin came up to the mic and announced that Merp would be singing a song.  Merp sang Adele, Onu sang Boyz to Men, and Leslie sang The Little Mermaid’s “Part of your world” (which incidentally Peter knew all the lyrics for).





Big thanks to Michael for organizing the “Nigeria after dark” trip.  I think we also can’t forget Professor Berk joining us at the club.  The next day, I heard Danny questioning him “Professor Berk, I heard you got down.  The question is – was the hat on or off?”

Day 2 – “Free zones”

Leslie: Day 2, we got right into answering a key question some of us came in with: if West Africa is  hot right now, how much of that is about oil?

The day included a visit to the African Capital Alliance, a private equity fund with investments in energy, telecom, infrastructure, and real estate. Their fund sizes have been growing (reflecting their optimism), and they’ve invested across a variety of sectors. Their returns have been outstanding. But they did appear to be the only game in town – there isn’t, according to the managers we spoke with, much in the way of private equity competition in Nigeria right now. When others see the opportunity, will they compete away these 30-40% IRRs?

At Oando, we learned a bit more about the oil industry in Nigeria. The company is largely a gas station operator, but has expanded upstream all the way to exploration, and hopes to make those operations more important in the future. In some ways, this mirrors the hopeful path of the rest of the country: going from exporting raw, crude products and importing refined, processed products into processing products domestically should help create jobs and provide a more stable footing for the economy than commodity prices.

We explored some of the needed factors for success in that effort at LADOL, the Lagos Deep Offshore Logistics base. Its leader explained that the base depended upon government concessions on taxation and trade that allowed it to attract foreign companies as customers for its cleaning and storage facilities. The base is part of a “free zone” that allows more foreign ownership, less taxation, and less complicating regulation than the rest of Nigeria. Such reduced regulation and government support for infrastructure might also help the rest of the country to grow into value-added areas like logistics that can create Nigerian jobs from the development of domestic oil resources.

At the Motor Boat Club in Lagos, we sipped Onu’s father’s signature drink and enjoyed scenery that could have belonged in Southern California. The bar might have been the only one that didn’t have a signature drink with an embarrassing name: that night at the alumni event, anyone who wanted could order a “Slow Comfortable Screw.”

At the mixer, we got one more answer to our question about the sources of West Africa’s growth: there are, in fact, some startups that are poised to grow and transform the economy. Tayo Oviosu of Pagatech (a mobile payments company) made a powerful impression on all of us not just that night, but later in the trip.
In short, to me, it seemed that oil has been a key to growth, but it appears it’s not the only thing that holds promise for Nigeria.

Andrew:  This day made me realize what a positive impact business can have on a developing country.  It seems a big theme of Nigeria is bringing jobs which have previously been sourced to foreigners back to Nigerians. 




Also a couple of memorable stories: one is at the motor boat club Ann Tran shared that her friends call her “Trannie.”  In fact, she has the @Trannie handle on Twitter.  Hayley also won the dubious distinction of being the only person to be cold-called the entire trip when our alumni called on her to ask “What question do you want to have answered about Africa?” 

Day 1 “TID – This is Delta”

Leslie: Our initial flight to Lagos got off to a somewhat bumpy start. We got four hours out into the middle of the Atlantic before the pilot declared that a problem had been found with the satellite communications systems, and the plane had to turn back to Atlanta. Those of us on the ill-fated flight decided later that the real reason was far more exciting: as we deplaned, there were six or so cops standing outside – was there a fugitive on board?

After a short night in Atlanta, some harried attempts, via Twitter, to get Delta to care about the mistake, and another flight across the Atlantic, a few of the delirious Delta crew joined those who’d already been in Lagos for a day to visit the Ibese cement factory.

Impressions between bouts of sleep: first, it was stiflingly hot. You stepped out of the bus and immediately began to sweat. The countryside was green, neither desert nor jungle-like, and the roads were clear. Second, the Ibese cement factory, when it emerged out of the landscape, was shockingly large. Its bright blue industrial scale was striking amid the surrounding bright orange rock and greenery. Third, we Stanford students can feel out of place amongst people who make things for a living. In the control room in my borrowed hard hat and orange vest and posing beside a large mixer as our tour guides explained how market monopolist Dangote cement had built this immense, profitable billion-dollar machine of a place, I couldn’t help but think of how small some of the start-up ideas I’d seen in the US were. Finally, the workers, many of whom were Indian or Chinese rather than Nigerian, seemed rather fond of Ting and Summer. Merp thought they’d gotten kidnapped and turned around to find it was just their attention that had been captured J.

At dinner, we talked with Lagos Business School students. All of them were impeccably dressed, and most seemed incredibly energetic and excited about their futures. I was struck by how not different their aspirations seemed from some of our own classmates’, despite their very different surroundings; some wanted to go into consulting, some into media, and some into finance.

Andrew:  I slept only 3 hours the night before our flight to Lagos because I was planning on sleeping the whole flight.  My plan worked well and I woke up six hours into the Atlanta to Lagos flight.  I looked at the in-flight map that was display on the screen in front of me, and I was shocked to see that that we were headed west.  Was I just groggy from lack of sleep?  I made my way to the back of the plane and found a flight attendant.  The flight attendant and the (rather drunk) American passenger in the back of the plane laughed at my confusion and explained that the pilot had announced we were turning around due to the satellite problem mention.  Here’s a picture you never want to see – miles to destination and miles to origin being exactly the same…